The Comforting Southern Stew I’m Making All Winter Long

Chicken mull isn’t just a dish. It’s the event where you eat it, meaning the chicken mull is the event—a big feast held at a church or hall, often as a fundraiser. You can sum up what chicken mull’s all about with four C words: community, chicken, charity, and crackers. 

This regional Southern stew isn’t well known beyond Georgia, North Carolina, and parts of South Carolina. The crackers—saltines, specifically—aren’t just served with the chicken mull; they’re an integral part of the dish itself. To thicken the stew and add some body, crushed saltines are added near the end of cooking. After simmering, the larger pieces become dumplings of sorts. 

Families cook chicken mull at home during the cold weather months, but for many, their fondest memories are of gatherings with large groups where giant pots of chicken mull get served up. Recipes can be closely guarded.

The soupy stew is always creamy, but it doesn’t always contain cream or dairy. And you have to have bottles of Texas Pete hot sauce within reach to douse your bowl before you dig in. The vinegary brightness of the sauce accents the simplicity of the main ingredients, both visually and flavor-wise. This is major stick-to-your-ribs fare.

How to Make Chicken Mull

Traditionally, the meat for chicken mull was ground, not shredded, but that’s how it’s mostly done nowadays. You start by simmering a chicken and basic aromatics (onion, celery, carrot, thyme) in water to make the broth. Good broth is fundamental to chicken mull, as its ingredients are so minimal. 

Once the meat is cool enough, you shred it from the bones to add it back to the strained broth—but not before the crushed saltines go in. While they simmer, they absorb the broth and partially dissolve; as the mull sits, it gets thicker and more decadent. In this chicken mull, a paste of softened butter and flour also thickens the stew, and it’s enriched with whole milk for a hint for richness.

What to Serve With Chicken Mull

Chicken mull is so straightforward that the right accompaniments can make a big difference in bringing it to life. 

• Cornbread or crusty bread is perfect for soaking up the thick broth.
• A simple green salad with a tangy vinaigrette can cut through the richness. Or try cole slaw.
• Pickles or chow chow are other ways to bring in a little acidity.

Chicken Mull Variations

• For an even deeper flavor, use chicken stock in place of the water when you make the broth. It’s chickeny times two!
• A knob of butter stirred into the pot at the end adds a velvety finish.
• Add corn or diced potatoes to make it even heartier.
• For a shortcut, use boxed chicken broth and shredded rotisserie chicken.
• Instead of a whole chicken, you can use 5 to 6 pounds of mixed chicken pieces. Bone-in chicken breasts will add the most pronounced chicken flavor, while thighs and legs will contribute a gelatinous texture.

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