One of the first dishes I learned how to make in culinary school was a traditional Spanish gazpacho. Looking back, I realize this is the perfect dish to start off eager young chefs—while the recipe couldn’t be simpler, it’s a true lesson in restraint and allowing ingredients to shine.
Perfecting the cold tomato-and-cucumber soup is a delicate balance. There’s only a handful of ingredients; some are powerful and others are more subtle. Learning to season a dish like this takes practice and a refined palate.
I remember the day my culinary school class made gazpacho. I watched in awe as the head chef instructor—who must have tasted 20 versions—provided thoughtful, constructive feedback for each of us, even though we all used the same set of instructions.
I often think of that lesson when I’m making soup of any kind. Does it need more acid? Do I need to punch up the salt? How is the mouthfeel? Does it need a bit of olive oil or cream? It’s true that anyone can cook, but tasting requires practice.
What Is Salmorejo?
To me, there is no better recipe with which to practice that skill than salmorejo, which is, funny enough, a cousin of gazpacho. I use Chef José Andrés’ recipe and am always wowed by how a few humble ingredients can transform into something so rich and flavorfrl.
If you’re unfamiliar, salmorejo is a cold tomato-based soup that hails from the Andalusian region of Spain. Instead of the distinct flavors of cucumbers and bell peppers that gazpacho carries, salmorejo uses stale bread to bulk up the soup. The texture is thick and the soup is filling, especially when finished with chopped hard-boiled eggs and flecks of nutty, umami-laden serrano ham. It’s perfect for a light lunch or as a starter for a dinner party in the summer.
Salmorejo gets better as it chills, so it’s great for a make-ahead meal; all of the flavors marry together and the bread gives it body. Also, it’s easy to assemble: Most of the work is done by your blender. Roughly chopping tomato and slicing up the bread is the only necessary knife work.
Simply Recipes / Molly Adams
What Makes the Best Salmorejo?
Andrés calls for vine-ripened tomatoes, but I’ve made this with heirlooms, cherry tomatoes (which I love, because you can toss them in the blender whole), and even plum tomatoes. Whichever variety you choose, the key is to use a ripe one since they are the heart and soul of the dish. Anything mealy or watery will make your soup taste the same.
As for the olive oil, use one that has a flavor you enjoy, as long as it’s fruity and fresh. This ingredient serves a few purposes: First, it adds richness and flavor, and second, it helps emulsify the soup and gives it creaminess.
When it comes to the bread, in true peasant cooking style, stale is best. I like to use sourdough for another layer of dimension, but any hearty white bread will do. If my bread has a thick crust, I remove it per the recipe, but if it’s a softer variety, I don’t bother.
How to Serve Salmorejo
As the recipe suggests, salmorejo is traditionally garnished with chopped hard-boiled eggs and cured Spanish ham, but the options are limitless. Sometimes I’ll scatter on a few marinated cherry tomatoes, or some toasted breadcrumbs for textural contrast. I also like to finish each serving with a little smoked paprika for some pleasant smokiness.
However you choose to garnish it, don’t forget an extra swirl of olive oil on top. It brings all of the flavors into perfect harmony.
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